Sydney’s a great place to be but a tough nut to crack. When the opening night of the King’s Vault ‘pop up bar’ was an overwhelming success – and given that it was a Prosecco Party it’s tempting to say that celebrations ‘bubbled over’ – writer Nick Stock and I looked at one another and said: Everyone loves an opening night. The real test is in how many people come to the next six nights.

Now that the King’s Vault bar is, sadly, closed, we’re all feeling humbled. An enormous amount of preparation and work went into it and behind all that, we all have an enormous amount of love for the people, the produce and land of the King Valley itself. The King’s Vault has been an incredible team effort with a lot of hard work behind the scenes, because we all wanted it to go well. We cared. The words ‘like a bunch of anxious teenagers’ spring to mind. The King Valley is a gorgeous place and in bringing various (tasty!) slices of it to Sydney, we all hoped that we’d done the place proud.

That’s not for us to judge, but we’re feeling humbled because the number of people who came along to the Vault grew every night. We’re gobsmacked at how many people came to see the High Country in the Big Smoke. Sydney responded to the King’s Vault with gusto, and we’re all immensely thankful. The mystery venue – a beautiful old charismatic building in Darlinghurst that is, unfortunately, earmarked for demolition – went from feeling cavernous to feeling too small. Nice problem to have. We feel like we’ve given this darling old building a mighty send off.

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There were a lot of corks popped, that’s for sure. The stunning, purpose-designed King’s Vault bar popped into action last night – with Australia’s (we reckon) first prosecco masterclass and first prosecco party. Talk about an easy way to get the fun rolling.

MC Nick Stock kicked things off by reminding the assembled throng that King Valley prosecco has been labelled the next big thing in Australian wine. It’s light and bubbly, crisp and fruity – purpose-built, itself, for the way Australians eat and drink today.

‘When I was young, living in Italy,’ Otto Dal Zotto, of Dal Zotto wines (the pioneer of Australian prosecco), said, ‘we would go to the café at 10am in the morning – not to drink coffee, but to open a bottle of prosecco. A bottle of prosecco was never too far away – it was part of our everyday life.’

A point his son, Michael Dal Zotto, picked up on. ‘The one thing about prosecco is that you can drink it almost any time. Before a meal, during a meal, after a meal – it always seems to fit.’

At this point Nick Stock mentioned that he was planning on waking up, the next day, at 9.55am ‘so that I can open a bottle of prosecco by 10, just to see how it goes’.

Rounds of laughter, eating and drinking. The rolling signature of the night. All this early-evening discussion took place around a beautiful, long, dressed-to-impress table – littered with the profound cheeses of the Milawa Cheese Factory, and other assorted antipasto. ‘I reckon,’ Sam Miranda said, ‘that prosecco is a great drink because it’s something you have without really thinking about it. It’s an easy, fresh wine and it’s only after you’ve had a few glasses that you ask, Hey, what’s this? It’s not a wine to be fussed over or picked apart – it’s a wine for enjoying yourself around the table.’

Of course when the ‘masterclass’ closed the bar fired up – as did the food of noted north-east Victorian chefs, Patrizia and Anthony Simone. By the end of the night a number of people had said to me – That’s the best food I’ve ever had at an event like that.

Slow roasted goat, home made salami, zucchini flowers stuffed with fetta before being lightly fried .. it was elite cooking with a homely, personal, touch. The perfect match to the wines of the King Valley … or the odd cheeky chestnut beer from Beechworth, or witbier from nearby Bright.

And so the King’s Vault “pop up bar” – in a beautiful old ex-art gallery in Darlinghurst – burst into the life. Tonight – dedicated to sangiovese, with Rocco Esposito of the famed Warden’s Wine and Food directing the food – should be just as exciting … as should the next week. If you’re able … you’d be mad not to arrange a visit.

Five years ago I was eating roast pigeon (as you do) with friends when someone pulled out a bottle of nebbiolo. The food and wine had all been warmly and collectively well received until this point; suddenly the table was divided. The wine looked pale for a red wine, with rusty-coloured edges, but when you took a sip – it was tannic and acidic and yet full of strong, tarry flavour. It seemed like a contradiction in a glass. Like it was speaking in a different tongue.

It didn’t look much – but I couldn’t stop wanting to taste it. It had spunk; even if it didn’t look like one. Not everyone at the table agreed – one thought it tasted like ‘sump oil’.

‘We really have to set the scene for people at cellar door,’ Fred Pizzini told writer Max Allen for a Gourmet Traveller article a few years back. ‘We tell them to forget about cabernet and shiraz, to not expect deep purple colour, to not expect heaps of fruit (flavour). So when they taste the wine, they’re prepared – and they’re usually bowled over by how much personality it has.’

I wish Fred had been at our dinner table. Nebbiolo – and its Piedmont regional stablemate, barbera – are grape varieties that make for different red wines. Or different to cabernet and shiraz and merlot, anyway. Appreciating them can take some ritual, some explanation, some time to get your head around – they’re slow wines, made to be consumed with slow food perhaps – though once the light goes off in your head,  watch out! Nebbiolo is known as the king of Italian red wine grapes and can be highly addictive.

Which is why it’s sometimes called Italy’s equivalent of red Burgundy (French pinot noir). It sings the same Siren song.

Perfume, personality, strength, longevity (good nebbiolo wines can be cellared for decades, and usually need to be decanted) – this is the kingdom of nebbiolo. It’s a grape that is notorious for being hard to grow, hard to make, and hard to understand at first – king is the polite word, when dictator is probably more apt. To steal another Fred Pizzini line from that Max Allen article: “It’s not so much a challenging grape variety. You just need to spend a decade or two working on it.”

Barbera has a lot in common with nebbiolo. Its personality isn’t as fierce and nor are its tannins – and it’s ‘fruitier’ in flavour and redder in colour too – but it’s full of refreshing acidity and for a light-ish red it has a stack of savoury, spicy, mouth-puckering character. It’s makes for a great drink, full stop, but it’s also a great drink on both the road to nebbiolo – and the road to the pizza shop.

Both nebbiolo and barbera are well suited to the King Valley – as releases to date have amply shown. Pizzini leads the way with nebbiolo in the Valley; Chrismont, Dal Zotto and Sam Miranda with barbera.

Designing the King’s Vault by Rachel Luchetti of Luchetti Krelle 

What are some of the design elements that need to be considered when designing in a temporary location such as the King’s Vault pop-up wine bar?
The building is awaiting demolition so this is our last chance to enjoy this wonderful space. It’s all about capitalising on the features in the existing building whilst being as resourceful as possible. Everything that we’re putting in the space is either recyclable or borrowed reclaimed objects.

Have you ever designed a pop-up venue before?
Does a house party count?

What was your design vision for the space?
We were inspired by the Italian varietals from the King Valley region and the rustic authenticity and honesty of winemaking. We wanted to really take people there and educate whilst capturing their imaginations with simple, clever appropriations of wine related concepts – avoiding the obvious clichés and promoting a friendly, communal, contemporary experience not dissimilar to what you would find at a cellar door in the King Valley.

What is your favourite design feature of the King’s Vault?
The bar front – It plays with perception and defies logic.

What three words would you use to describe the space?
Spirited, playful, original

Were there elements of the existing space that influenced the design?
The space is lofty and the ceilings high with a character all of its own.

What was the biggest challenge you had to overcome designing the King’s Vault?
We had to think on our feet and make do with the limited resources available and a building in need of a lot of love.

The food better be worth it. After the driving and flying and delays and trains, it takes me 36 hours of non-stop travel to get from home to Florence in Italy. By the time I arrive, I’m starving. I check into my hotel, grab a map, and head for a restaurant that’s been recommended to me – called Cibreo. It’s not too far – except that I get lost in the labyrinth that is the historic centre of Florence. It takes me two hours to find it. And when I finally get there – it looks brilliant, bustling, authentic – they are booked out.

I stumble, dejected, to the nearest trattoria. It could have been anything. It’s dark inside and the menu is in Italian, and the only word I know of Italian is ‘Nonna’. I point at the first pasta on the list; at the first white wine on the list. There is a window to the kitchen and as I wait I watch a chef toss pasta in a frying pan, with cream. Then, elaborately, he shaves something onto the pasta. Something white. Hard cheese, I guess. Some herbs and a final toss and then the dish comes to me. So simple.

I like truffles, and truffle oil, and truffled honey, but until this moment I thought I only enjoyed them in modest measure. Indeed, if pressed, I would have called them over-rated. Then I take a mouthful of the pasta and everything changes. Forever.

It wasn’t hard cheese the chef had shaved. It was fresh white truffles. In quantity. It’s four years later and I can still taste them. A flavour that haunts. Strong and delicate and all-encompassing at once. Then comes a neutral, crisp, savoury Italian white wine and I drink it with the creamy, truffled pasta and if ever I needed it – the love for the Italian way of eating and drinking is confirmed.

No wonder I like visiting the King Valley so much. It’s Australia with Italian-influences … and it’s authentic.

Here are some food-wine thoughts of some King Valley winemakers …

Joel Pizzini of Pizzini wines …

Favourite food and wine combination?
One of my favourite wines is Sangiovese from a producer called Fontodi from Tuscany. The wine is called Flaccianello Della Piave. I prefer to enjoy this wine with a big, fat, dusty cigar …or Nonna’s gnocchi!

Do you have a special snack that you can’t resist when you’re drinking prosecco/pinot grigio/sangiovese/nebbiolo or any other Italian varietal?
I wrap a piece of chocolate (I do prefer dark chocolate but if this is not available then any will do) in a dried apricot. I feel it would go well with all of these wines … though possibly better with Sangiovese.

If you could wine and dine on anything this evening – what would be your guilty pleasure?
Definitely a good bottle of Nebbiolo and fresh truffles.

Sam Miranda of Sam Miranda wines …

Favourite food and wine combination?
Anything that’s from our vegi patch. When in season I do a great baby roma tomato and fresh basil pasta with just some Australian olive oil and parmesan cheese… A nice glass of Prosecco followed by a Sangiovese completes the meal.

Do you have a special snack that you can’t resist when you’re drinking prosecco/pinot grigio/sangiovese/nebbiolo or any other Italian varietal?
During the summer months you cant beat a making pizzas at home and a glass of Prosecco!

If you could wine and dine on anything this evening – what would be your guilty pleasure?
Red wine and cheese!

Otto Dal Zotto of Dal Zotto wines… 

Favourite food and wine combination?
Oysters with Prosecco.

Do you have a special snack that you can’t resist when you’re drinking prosecco/pinot grigio/sangiovese/nebbiolo or any other Italian varietal?
In summer I love having some Polenta chips  with a glass of Pinot Grigio. Bellisimo!

If you could wine and dine on anything this evening – what would be your guilty pleasure?
Oysters. I love them, and unfortunately it’s a little hard to get them in the King Valley. So I’m very much looking forward to having some in Sydney. 

Arnie Pizzini of Chrismont wines…

Favourite food and wine combination?
My tastes change with the seasons. With the summer heat coming early this year I am currently enjoying fresh vine ripened tomatoes with Spanish onion, basil and a splash of extra virgin olive oil. Fantastic with a chilled Pinot Grigio

Do you have a special snack that you can’t resist when you’re drinking prosecco/pinot grigio/sangiovese/nebbiolo or any other Italian varietal?
Cheese and red wine are a great match on any occasion for a snack, morning, noon and night.

If you could wine and dine on anything this evening – what would be your guilty pleasure?
I love polenta with osso bucco, with a great Nebbiolo or Barbera

If you like the look of this, then maybe it’s time you entered the competition to win a holiday for two to the King Valley, Victoria.

The King’s Vault will be open from  6.30PM-11.00PM on the following dates:

WEDNESDAY
Nov 18 & 25

THURSDAY
Nov 19 & 26

FRIDAY
Nov 27

If you’d like to come along and taste the new world Italian wine varietals of the King Valley register here. Salute!

Home cooked dishes, many using Nonna’s recipes, innovative and exciting wines styles and generous hospitality … welcome to the King Valley’s Spring celebration “La Dolce Vita” or The Sweet Life at King Valley wineries from 14 – 15 November.

It’s been a good spring. A good winter. The rains have come and now the warm is on, and the picturesque King Valley is out-doing itself. If ever there was a great time for a King Valley festival it’s now. The King Valley’s Spring Festival is on November 14-15 and I’ll bet it lives up to its name.

They know about hospitality in the King Valley. Thirteen wineries are involved (so expect lots of pinot grigio, sangiovese, prosecco, barbera, and arneis to be flowing) and lots of fresh new wine releases. You’ll be the first to try the new season’s wines.  Not to mention the food – though of course it’s bound to be a highlight. The wine families of the King Valley will be pulling out Nonna’s recipes and home-cooking a bunch of treats for visitors.

Here are some of the things going on (as they were provided to me):

• Brown Brothers Wine & Food Festival. Over 50 wines on tasting! Wines will be matched to dishes created by some of the region’s finest chefs and a farmer’s market will present produce from the region.
• On Saturday at Chrismont Wines, book early for a six course degustation lunch celebration where Chrismont wines are matched to a menu by head chef Matt Wilkinson of Circa (Melbourne). On Sunday, enjoy new varieties Prosecco, Savagnin, Moscato & Fragolino, a menu bursting with European flavours, gelato and music by Paris & Co.
• Experience the Ciccone hospitality with authentic Calabrian vino, food and coffee with activities to suit everyone. Listen to tunes from a Mandolin and classical guitar duo whilst feasting on our southern Italian cuisine prepared in-house by our famous mamma, Pina Ciccone.
• At Dal Zotto’s, its ‘Primavera del Prosecco’ a celebration of the new vintage of Prosecco. Activities include bocce, wine master classes, helicopter joy flights, live music, new Prosecco cocktails and amazing seasonal dishes.
• Sample King River Estate’s new release biodynamic wines 2008 Merlot and 2008 Shiraz all weekend. Book early for Saturday’s famous Tony Bilson lunch, five delicious courses matched to King River Estate Wines.
• Sample 2009 aromatic whites or a Brachetto cocktail at Pizzini Wines. Enjoy an extensive menu including Katrina Pizzini’s gnocchi and dishes by Adam Pizzini of Rinaldo’s Casa Cucina. This is an event for the whole family with loads of kid’s and adult activities alike, including live music, roving entertainers and market stalls.
• Let Sam Miranda Wines chef, Richard Verrochio tempt you with their cellar door menu and classic Italian pizzas. The new release 2009 Sam Miranda Prosecco will be available for tasting and sale. ‘Kids VIP area’ with jumping castle, face painting, balloons and more. Check their website for the movie on show Saturday night.

For further information on all the festivities and participating wineries of La Dolce Vita weekend go to www.visitwangaratta.com.au/pages/king-valley

There’s lots of accommodation available in the area. For accommodation and other information contact the Wangaratta Visitor Information Centre on 1800 801 065 or email tourism@wangaratta.vic.gov.au.

I am so lucky to be working in a business where my children are able to work alongside me daily. Smoko time each day is fantastic, sometimes Joel’s little son Luca comes for a visit or David Handley (a Muirs sales representative, who over the years has become a lovely, life-long friend) stops in for an espresso. On other occasions it’s a time for relaxed business conversation between family members.

The other day Joel (my eldest son) and I were enjoying our second espresso. We were discussing our quickly changing working environment when Joel said “I am so happy in my new winery, I now feel that my winemaking has a home”.

Since retuning to the King Valley to make wine for Pizzini, Joel has had to operate in some difficult and stressful wine making environments. Our sheds have had to be constantly re-arranged for him to make wine while also making it safe and inviting for visitors to cellar door.

Twelve months ago we purchased the neighbouring farm “Nambucca”, which was also once used to grow tobacco. The farm has two large sheds on it. One is a seventy metre long Burley shed once used for air drying tobacco, and the other, a smaller shed which was used to store the bales of dried tobacco ready for market. These spaces now provide the perfect, convenient space for Joel to make and store his wines.

Over the past three months the Burley shed’s walls have been lined with insulation and its floor concreted. Joel has already relocated his stainless steel tanks and is currently working with a draftsperson to design walkways and platforms to link them. Joel’s barrels now also have a permanent home. There will be no more moving them in and out of the walkway to cellar door and old barrel rooms to create space for our visitors over event weekends.

Joel has never complained about the nomadic approach to his winemaking set up, but I can see now what he means by having a “home”. This space is his to use as he likes in order to achieve his winemaking goals. When fully completed it will be a professionally presented winery of which he is already very proud and happy to be working in.

Declining a third espresso, I thought to myself, now that I have made one child happy, I have three more to go…it is an enjoyable pastime!

(From the Pizzini Wines Newsletter Nov/Dec 2009).